DALLAS—Brooks Bollinger, a journeyman third-stringer whose career has found him occupying roster spots behind backups Vinny Testaverde, Kelly Holcomb, and Brad Johnson (twice), is now considered by an NFL team to be their actual best choice at quarterback. "We can win with Brooks," coach Wade Phillips said of the Wisconsin product, whose college and pro careers have been marked by hard work, gutsy play, and handoffs rather than talent. "Must, I mean. We must win with him. We have no choice." Bollinger was unavailable for comment, as he was practicing handoffs to a man named Tashard Choice, who is currently the best option at running back for the same NFL team.